Although a long walk, this flat route is easy going. It starts in North Fambridge, ending in Burnham-on-Crouch, with a train journey and short walk back to the start. Most of the walk is an easy to follow 9 miles of seawall along the River Crouch on the Salt Marsh Coast Trail. This is not as repetitive as it might sound. There is plenty of wildlife and as the river approaches the sea it becomes livelier and the surrounding scenery changes.
17km/10.6 miles
Link to OS Route Map: North Fambridge to Burnham-on-Crouch
The seawall section of the route is 9 miles
Conditions: HOT! 32+ degrees, dry, a few welcome clouds.
Parking: Blue House Farm Essex Wildlife Trust Nature Reserve (free)
Essex Coastal Challenge
We did this walk as part of our Essex Wildlife Trust Coastal Challenge. We’ll be walking 35 miles of Essex coastal habitat throughout August (Marine Month) and documenting our journey here to raise awareness of Essex Wildlife Trust, the work they do, and the impact of climate change on our coast. You can support our challenge and donate to the trust here: https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/lovewildwalks
Read about our other walks from the challenge:
Week One: Leigh-on-Sea Circular from Two Tree Island
Week Three: Dengie Peninsular Circular Coastal Walk from Tillingham, nr. Bradwell-on-Sea
Blue House Farm Nature Reserve
We adapted our route from a similar one on essexwalks.com but instead started in the Essex Wildlife Trust car park at Blue House Farm Nature Reserve. Alternatively, you can reach the walk by rail and start at North Fambridge station, doing the last half a mile of our walk as the start instead. Note that dogs are not allowed on the paths through the reserve, though it is possible to bypass the reserve along the sea wall. In general, we don’t recommend this walk for dogs because of the stiles.
Unsurprisingly for a reserve with farm in its name, the first field was home to grazing sheep. Afterwards, the mown grass path went alongside grassland and protected, fenced off brooks. The permissive path was easy to follow, only branching from the main route to reach the (currently closed) hides.
The reserve is an important habitat for water voles, but we weren’t lucky enough for a sighting of these cute creatures. We did see an abundance of insects though. Large bees, and many species of butterfly, damselfly and dragonfly.
Apart from the sound of heavy machinery to the west, and the train honking as it passes the level crossing at Althorne, the reserve is peaceful. As we rambled through, we passed an owl box, and disturbed a rabbit and a pheasant.
The second bird hide is just off the path and built into a hill. Curious to see what was on the other side of the closed hide, we climbed onto the mound and startled a heron! I suppose that’s why people use the hides!
The hide looks out onto what, in winter, is probably a vast expanse of water, wildfowl and waders. This time of year it was quite dry and desolate. A windpump on the water’s edge gave the view an American farmland vibe, if you ignore the pylons in the distance!
Seawall and intertidal mud flats
Exiting the reserve up steps onto the seawall, we turned left to walk alongside the intertidal mudflats on the Salt Marsh Coast Trail. You can turn right here to return to the starting point. Also to the right are two mudflat inlets; these ‘horseshoes’ are the result of a seawall breach in 1897. Redshank and Dunlin use the mud along the Crouch for feeding. The mud is also a roosting site for Lapwing and Golden Plover.
As we walked along the clay seawall, the sun was right in front of us and stifling. Occasionally we’d walk through a cool cross-breeze; much needed on this hot morning. We were probably only just over a mile in by this point but already extremely grateful for our hats; there is zero shade on the entire route. This part of the river plays host to several species of bird and there’s a bench where you can pause to take it all in.
Salt Marsh Coast Trail: Bridgemarsh Creek
The seawall headed north away from the main river with Bridgemarsh Creek to our right and the shallow borrow dyke to our left. As we only learnt on last week’s walk in Leigh-on-Sea, borrow dykes are man-made as a result of digging for sea wall construction, and provide important habitat for several species of flora and fauna.
Across the creek lays Bridgemarsh Island. Unbelievably, this used to be a farm. It flooded in 1928 and the humans never went back. It’s now a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).
The wildgrass along the sea wall was tall and tickled our bare legs but it was no-where near as heavy going as at The Naze. Butterflies and damselflies fluttered besides us and grasshoppers leapt out the way as our boots stomped through their home.
Close to some grazing cows on the farmland to the north, we spotted the heron again, this time with a partner. The pair of them took off AGAIN, though we were finally able to get a photo at the next bend before one of them flew off leaving the other alone on the bank. Unfortunately, a faulty filter on Martin’s zoom lens meant the photos came out blurry. 🙁
Now beyond the borders of the nature reserve, the view to the north of the borrow dyke and grassland was of freshly harvested, golden fields. Conflicting this calmness, the sea wall itself contained the aftermath of a crab massacre; empty common shore crab shells and fresh bird droppings littered the path, indicating that a flock had a meal here not long ago. (Martin has an irrational fear of crabs, so refused to photograph it).
Soon we reached a stile, which is completely wired up at the gaps in the fencing, so only suitable for a dog if you’re willing and able to carry it.
We continued to follow the snaking sea wall alongside the salt marsh of the creek with views of Bridgemarsh Marina creeping closer. Speaking of snakes, this is adder habitat, and there are signs warning you not to venture off the path into the long grass. Inland we spotted the striking building, “The Tower” – a residence converted from a water tower.
Salt Marsh Coast Trail: Althorne
On the approach to Althorne the path skirts the edge of a static caravan park, Smugglers Club Ground. There were a few homages to smuggling that caught our eye on this walk, which led to some research: The Dengie peninsula between the River Crouch and Blackwater is relatively isolated even today, so it’s easy to imagine its popularity with 18th and 19th century smugglers. The numerous, criss-crossing waterways on the low lying land once linked up; the Essex mists and dykes providing more secrecy than the Thames. Fun fact: Smugglers tunnels used to run from where we started the walk, Blue House Farm, to the Ferryboat Inn, North Fambridge. Read more: Smuggler’s Britain
Despite intimidating signs warning you of CCTV, private property, and not to stray from the path, the couple of Smuggler’s Club residents we saw were cheerful and gave us a friendly wave. A pair of swans and their mature cygnets also watched us pass.
The path passes through a small marina and the landscape becomes quickly rural again with birds all around. The creek, salt marsh, and Bridgemarsh Island continued alongside us to the south. To the north, a game and wildlife conservation area, the small lake inhabited by a flock of geese.
Bridgemarsh island came to a point and the creek re-joined the River Crouch. The estuary was swelling with the incoming tide and it was busy with pleasure yachts enjoying the warm weather. Immediately to the north was an unnervingly lime green lagoon!
The path met another inlet of intertidal mud. The urge to cross on the mud was tempting. Footprints in the mud told us we were not the first to think this, but we stuck to the path nonetheless! This was also the first part of the walk where the footpath branches in two directions – we carried on hugging the water’s edge but straight on takes you over the level crossing to Althorne.
Salt Marsh Coast Trail: Althorne to Burnham-on-Crouch
From here on we started to see more people. One family was making use of a small corner of stony beach for sunbathing and paddle boarding. We then reached the only hill of the walk, The Cliff. The Cliff is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). Fish fossils can be found in the London Clay and on the beach after storms.
The path climbs up onto the cliff above the beach below, through a field and back down the other side. From this part of the sea wall until Burnham-on-Crouch, we encountered an increasing number of people coming the other way. In parts the path is only wide enough for one person, especially troublesome during social distancing!
On the other side of the river is Lion Creek. It was once part of the Crouch estuary but has long since been cut off by seawall. The area is now part of the Lion Creek and Lower Raypits nature reserve, managed by Essex Wildlife Trust. Their habitat restoration project retains winter rainfall to ensure sufficient water to allow wetland birds like the black-tailed godwit to breed.
As we continued east, the flat, arable farmland to the north made way for greener pastures and small wooded areas. By now the sun was high in the sky and the water was glistening like diamonds, the small waves of the incoming tide gently lapping the washed up seaweed.
We passed a disc golf course and Creeksea Sailing Club – which tricked us into thinking we were at Burnham already – busy with people eagerly preparing for an afternoon on their boats. Shortly after was the expansive Burnham Marina Yacht Harbour, full of huge, moored boats on land and in the water.
Burnham-on-Crouch
The final section of the walk goes down the promenade. The quay was bustling with life without being uncomfortably busy; families paddling off small, stony beaches, friends relaxing on yachts, and others sailing or wind surfing.
Life on the water is intrinsic to this town; it was once an oyster port and the sailing community know it as the ‘Cowes of the East Coast’. Were it not for COVID-19, the town would be busy preparing for its annual regatta. Despite the sea being about another 10 miles away and the estuary not yet at its mouth, the town has a seaside feel to it.
We passed the Burnham museum and settled down for a pint at the 16th Century quayside pub, The Anchor. The guest session ale was fruity and refreshing but CAMRA loyalists will want to visit The Queen’s Head instead (we didn’t, so can’t vouch for it).
Although it felt by now that the walk was over, we still had about a mile and a half to go. We meandered past the town’s historic pubs and picturesque buildings, and bought gelato at the Burnham war memorial.
We got another rest at the rail station, as we frustratingly missed the train by one minute and had to wait 40 minutes for the next one!
The route from North Fambridge station back to the car was straightforward and we returned to the calmness of the nature reserve where our walk began.
Love Wild Walks
